'Tony' Review: Anthony Bourdain's coming-of-age story unfolds in charming dramedy

"I was — to be frank — a spoiled, miserable, narcissistic, self-destructive and thoughtless young lout, and badly in need of a good ass-kicking."  That was how the late celebrity chef, author and travel host Anthony Bourdain described himself in his book "Kitchen Confidential." And it sets the tone for A24's new film, "Tony."  Set in the summer of 1975, aspiring 19-year-old New Jersey writer Tony (played by "The Holdovers" breakout star Dominic Sessa) is applying for a prestigious fellowship, something his big ego believes he has in the bag — until he doesn't.  ‘ONE NIGHT ONLY’ REVIEW: MONICA BARBARO AND CALLUM TURNER CHARM IN HIGH-CONCEPT ROM-COM After already telling his parents he had landed the fellowship, Tony instead heads to Cape Cod to chase a girl he's been obsessed with, Nancy ("CODA" star Emilia Jones), to whom he boasted about his ill-fated career prospects. And like the fellowship, he thinks he can easily woo Nancy — except he learns the hard way she isn't even available.  Desperate for money and a place to stay, Tony is at the mercy of a man simply known as Chef (Antonio Banderas), who runs a tiny lobster joint in Provincetown, tasking Tony to wash dishes.  ‘SPIDER-MAN: BRAND NEW DAY’ REVIEW: TOM HOLLAND, ZENDAYA RETURN FOR ACTION-PACKED, EMOTIONAL SEQUEL It's certainly a clash of personalities between the care-free Tony and the no-nonsense Chef. But little does Tony realize how much his life would change simply by working in Chef's kitchen. It's becoming increasingly difficult for comedic directors to break through and join an elite group of active filmmakers that includes Judd Apatow ("40-Year-Old Virgin," "Knocked Up"), Paul Feig ("Bridesmaids," "Spy") and Phil Lord & Christopher Miller ("21 Jump Street," "Project Hail Mary"). Making the case for himself is Matt Johnson.  'THE ODYSSEY' REVIEW: CHRISTOPHER NOLAN GOES EPIC WITH HIS MOST AMBITIOUS FILM TO DATE Johnson, a Canadian comedic actor who directed, wrote and starred in 2023's underrated "BlackBerry" and the hilarious mockumentary "Nirvanna the Band the Show the Movie" released earlier this year, is back in the director's chair and co-wrote the film with Matthew Miller, Todd Bartels and Lou Howe. They strike a balance that showcases Bourdain's unique sense of humor while grappling with his personal struggles he had even at an early age. Sessa continues to impress as he's able to make us laugh, make us think he's a jerk and tug at our heartstrings all at once, perfectly capturing Bourdain's spirit. And Banderas gives his best performance in years as Tony's hard-nosed boss and mentor, providing some of the film's funniest moments and even the most moving.  'THE INVITE' REVIEW: SETH ROGEN, OLIVIA WILDE HOST ONE HILARIOUS DINNER PARTY YOU WON'T REGRET ATTENDING "Tony" is a charming coming-of-age dramedy that gives a glimpse as to how Anthony Bourdain became the man the world came to love — and his biggest fans should certainly be delighted. Sessa and Banderas shine onscreen while Johnson excels behind the camera, extending his impressive streak as a promising comedic filmmaker.  "Tony" is rated R for pervasive language, drug use, and sexual content/nudity. Running time: 1 hour, 46 minutes. In theaters now.